Sleeve construction for garments



July 28, 1942. J.- CASELLA 2,291,025

SLEEVE CONSTRUCTION FOR GARMENTS Filed March 26, 1940 Jg /m fasella ATZE/ZNEY Patented July 28, 1942 2,291,025 SLEEVE CONSTRUCTION FOR GARMENTS John Casella, Long Beach, N. Y., assignor to Mutual Rosenbloom Corporation, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application March 26, 1940, Serial No. 325,944

2 Claims.

The present invention relates to new andiuseful improvements ingarments and more particularly to improved sleeve construction for garments.

The principal object of the present invention is to provide a sleeve. construction which is especially adapted for sport garments, such as golf dresses, golf jackets and the like, whereby the. wearer will be given absolute freedom for swinging the arms. Another object of the invention is to provide a sleeve construction for garments which will permit free and easy movement of the arms without the use of gussets, inserts or other objectionable parts. which detract from the neat, appearance of the garment. A further object of the invention is, to provide a sleeve construction for garments which will give greater comfort to the wearer at the. arm pits. A still. further object of the invention is to provide a sleeve construction for the aforesaidpurposes which is simple in structure and economicalto manufacture.

Other objects and advantages of the present invention will be apparent to thos skilled in the art to which the present invention relates.

With the foregoing and other objects in view my invention consists of the novel features of construction hereinafter described and illustrated in the accompanying drawing, wherein there is shown a preferred embodiment of the invention.

In the accompanying drawing which forms an integral part of this disclosure,

Fig. 1 is a front perspective View of a portion of a garment which embodies the sleeve construction of my invention, the sleeve of the garment being shown in outwardly extended position;

Fig. 2 is a sectional view taken along the line 22 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 illustrates a pattern or blank constructed in accordance with my invention, from which a front section of the garment is formed;

Fig. 4 illustrates a pattern or blank constructed in accordance with my invention, from which a back section of the garment is formed; and

Fig. 5 illustrates a pattern or blank constructed in accordance with my invention, from which the sleeve is formed.

Referring to the drawing, wherein like reference characters indicate corresponding parts throughout the several views, the invention is shown as applied to a womans dress. Except for the construction of the armholes and sleeves, the dress may be of any suitable design or style,

consisting principally of front sections l0, back sections H, and sleeves I2. In accordance with my invention the front section I0 is formed from a pattern or blank having the shape and contour shown in Fig. 4, and the back section jls formed from a pattern or blank having the shape and contour shown in Fig. 3. Each front section l0 is sewed to the corresponding back section along the edges |3a and |3b to provide a side seam I3, and also along the edges Ma.

and |4b to provide a shoulder seam M; The

joinder of each front section to the corresponding back section in the aforesaid manner forms an armhole for receiving the sleeve. The armhole thus formed comprises a substantially oval shaped upper portion defined by the edges I5 and I6 and a substantially triangular lower extension defined by the edges I7 and I8. The lower triangular extension of the armhole extends downwardly into the side portion of the dress.

Each sleeve ID of the dress, in accordance with my invention, is preferably formed from a single piece of cloth having the shape and contour of the pattern or blank illustrated in Fig. 5. The sleeve is formed into substantially tubular form by sewing together the edges I91; and I9!) to provide a seam I9.

The sleeve blank shown in Fig. 5 is constructed, in accordance with my invention, to provide a convexly arcuate portion 2|] and a pair of tongues 2| and 22 which are disposed to opposite sides of the arcuate portion 20. When the sleeve is formed the arcuate portion 20 and the tongues 2| and 22 constitute the inner end of the sleeve. The edge 23 of the sleeve portion 20 is adapted to register with the edges l5 and I6 of the armhole, and the edges 24 and 25 of the tongues 2| and 22 are adapted to register with the edges l1 and I8 respectively. When the garment is assembled, the seam l9 extends longitudinally along the under portion of the sleeve.

As illustrated in Fig. 5, the end of the tongue 2| is provided with a triangular notch 26 which is defined by the edges 21 and 28 and the end of the tongue 22 is provided with a similar notch 29 which is defined by the edges 30 and 3|. The purpose of these notches will be presently described.

In accordance with my invention, prior to securing the sleeve l2 within the armhole, a pleat is formed in the tongue 2| by folding on an oblique line 32 forwardly and inwardly toward the seam line 9, so that the edge 27 coincides with the edge 28, and thence folding outwardly on the line 33. A similar pleat is formed in the tongue 22 by folding on an oblique line 34 forwardly and inwardly toward the seam line l9, so that the edge 30 coincides with the edge 3|, and thence folding outwardly on the line 35. There is thu formed a pair of converging pleats having their inner edges 33 and 35 in abutment on the seam line l9. When the sleeve is sewn into the armhole, a longitudinal slit is presented along the substantially triangular portion of the sleeve formed by the tongues 2| and 22, which coincides with the seam line 19, as shown in Fig. 1.

The dot and dash lines throughout the several views indicate the lines of stitches when the garment is assembled.

It will be observed that the sleeve of my improved construction is provided at the inner end with a substantially triangular extension formed by the tongues 2| and 22, which fits into a corresponding downwardly directed extension of the armhole extending deeply into the side of the garment. This triangular extension of the sleeve displaces a corresponding portion of the body of the ordinary garment and thus relieves the body of the garment from the strain caused by movement of the arms. This improved sleeve construction therefore gives greater comfort to the wearer.

The converging pleats which are formed in the triangular extension of the sleeve are adapted to spread and thus allows for expansion at the side of the garment. The wearer is thereby given absolute freedom for swinging the arms. as for instance when playing golf. The pleats, furthermore, are concealed within the sleeve, there being visible only a narrow slit along the side of the garment and under the armpit. The improved sleeve construction thus presents a very neat appearance.

Although I have shown and described my invention as applied to a womans dress, I desire it to be understood that my improved sleeve construction is not limited to the specific embodiment thereof herein shown and described but that it may be applied to any type of garment and can be used for both womens and men's wear. I also desire it to be understood that changes may be made in the details of construction Without department from the spirit and scope of the invention as defined in the appended claims.

Having thus described and illustrated my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. In a garment including a body and sleeves, a front section of the body united with a back section of the body along the shoulder and side defining an armhole having a substantially oval upper portion at the shoulder and a substantially triangular lower portion at the side, and a sleeve of substantially tubular form set into the armhole and having a substantially triangular extension at the inner end thereof for registering with the lower portion of the armhole, said triangular extension being folded to form a pair of oppositely disposed pleats providing a longitudinally extending slit at the armpit of the sleeve, and stitched at the inner end of the sleeve to normally retain the pleats in folded condition.

2. In a garment including a body and sleeves, a front section of the body united with a back section of the body along the shoulder and side defining an armhole having a substantially oval upper portion at the shoulder and a substantially triangular lower portion at the side, and a sleeve of substantially tubular form set into the armhole having a longitudinal seam along the under portion thereof and a substantially triangular extension at the inner end thereof, the latter for registering with the lower portion of the.armhole, said triangular extension being folded to form a pair of longitudinally extending pleats having their visible edges in abutment on the seam line of the sleeve to permit expansion of the sleeve at the armpit, and stitched at the inner end of the sleeve to normally retain the pleats in folded condition.

JOHN CASELLA. 

